Do you have questions you would like to ask me? If you would like more information about WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenace, I 'd be most happy to give it whether it be giving an even fuller description of the book than you find on this web site or telling you whether or not the book deals with a particular problem you are having.
I also welcome comments and suggestions from those who have purchased and used WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU. In fact, if you run across a problem that I have not covered in the book, send me a message and let's see if I can suggest a solution.
If at all possible, I will respond within 24-48 hours.
You may send me your message by just clicking on the "Email Me" link on the sidebar.
Stan Gundry
Book Review by Peter C. King of WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenance as it appeared in the Spring 2000 issue (No.110) of Avanti Magazine (p. 23), the quarterly publication of the Avanti Owners Association International.
This book review comes in two versions, the short one, and the long one.
The Short One: There is more information about maintaining your Avanti in this book than in any ten on your bookshelf. . . .If you order it now you will have a head start on the people who read the long one and then order the book.
The Long One: Every book has a character*the way it makes you feel as you read it. This one makes me feel as if I'm putting tools on a car for the first time with the trusted family mechanic looking over my shoulder. He doesn't tell me everything to do. He tells me where I find what I need so that I will know what to do when he isn't there. In the long run, it's the finding that is the real value, not the doing.
I use a simple technique when I evaluate a how-to book. One new idea, one problem averted, one right tool bought the first time is worth the price of the book. If I can find one of those, it's a buy. If I can find two, it's a must-buy. The second one pays for the tools. It contains two sections that fill that bill. Electrical System*Miscellaneous*"Two Shorts Waiting to Happen" and "Critical Grounds." Have you ever heard of an Avanti burning to the ground for no apparent reason? This is why. Climatizer and Ventilating System*"Avoiding a Flood" will just save your carpets. The book is full of stuff like this.
Is the book worth the price? Think about that for one minute. One stripped bolt. One wrong part. One delay while you order the right part. You can think of a dozen situations where you'd have given everything in your wallet to undo what you just did. Your bookshelf is full of books that are long on theory but short on telling you how and why to do anything practical. This book is long on advice. All 108 pages of it.
I disagree with the author on one point. He positions the book with the following statement. "While this supplement relates specifically to Studebaker Avanti restoration, much of the information will be helpful to other Studebaker restorations and for Avanti IIs on the original Studebaker frame." True, but it doesn't matter which era your Avanti is from. This book will save you the purchase price several times over.
Even if you don't repair your Avanti yourself, buy this book and give it to your mechanic. Your Avanti will thank you for it.
(Copyright 2000 by Avanti Magazine, the official publication of the Avanti Owners Association International [AOAI]. Used by permission. All rights reserved by AOAI. This review may not be copied or transmitted without the permission of AOAI.)
Book Review of WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenance, by Bob Palma, Technical Editor of Turning Wheels, as it appeared in the September 2000 issue (Vol.32, No.9) of TW, p.34, the monthly publication of The Studebaker Drivers Club.
This is a great book and every Studebaker enthusiast ought to have one. Regardless of their interest in Avantis.
That may be the world's shortest book review, but it's accurate. This is one impressive tome, arranged to complement the original-issue Studebaker Avanti Shop Manual. Although author Stan Gundry encourages owning a Studebaker Avanti Shop Manual as well, it is not required to benefit greatly from this book.
The title "What the Shop Manual Won't Tell You" is most accurate and must not be interpreted as a put-down of Studebaker's original Shop Manual authors. Those writers must, by necessity, prepare Shop Manuals based on pre-production and early production cars; there's no way they can incorporate experiences beyond the controlled testing of pre-production units. Even Service Bulletins cannot report on units that have been on the road 20 or 30 years and worked on by a variety of talent levels, shall we say. That's where Stan's book picks up the slack and does an excellent job.
Regardless of one's ownership or interest in Studebaker Avantis (and later ones, too; they are also covered), most of this book has applications for other Studebakers as well. It is worth having for those references alone. How about information on lubricants for your Ross steering gear? Extensive real-world feedback on Studebaker's original disc brakes and honest observations about contemporary retro-fit offerings? Stan even discusses the illumination properties of the various bulb numbers with which Avantis (and, by association, virtually every other Studebaker of the day) were originally equipped, and the properties of the bulbs available today for contemporary replacement.
The information in this book is at many levels of automotive skill and knowledge. One can pick and choose how much they want to personally absorb and use, versus items one might consider best left to current professionals. Along these lines, Stan cautionsly approaches topics such as paint and body work, reminding the reader of potential material hazards that simply didn't exist when Avantis (and other Studebakers, of course) were new.
Stan does a good job of balancing the extremes of persons who want to do all vehicle maintenance and repair themselves, versus those who think even an oil change is best left to professionals. Both polarities and their interests are treated fairly and courteously in this book. Included information is of value to competent but simply uninformed professionals with whom one might be dealing. This makes it pleasant and informative reading for just about anybody with an interest in old cars, much less Studebakers or even Avantis
.
This is not merely a compilation of one man's experiences. Noted SDCers Gearge D. Krem, John Shanahan, supercharger expert John Erb, Avanti expert Jon Myer, transmission expert John Metzker, and the late Ron Hall are all credited for having made contributions.
Quite frankly, I did not find the slightest shortcoming. The sum total of all the contributors, combined with Stan Gundry's excellent compilation and writing skills, make this a strongly recommended addition to any Studebaker enthusiast's library . . . again, even if one doesn't own an Avanti or plans to do so.
(Copyright 2000 by Turning Wheels, the official publication of The Studebaker Drivers Club [SDC]. Used by permission. All rights reserved by SDC. This review may not be copied or transmitted without the permission of SDC.)
WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
MY INTENDED READERS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SOME ADVICE BEFORE YOU START
A BASIC ASSUMPTION
A WORD ABOUT VENDORS
ALMOST THE LAST WORD BEFORE YOU BEGIN
GUARANTEE AND DISCLAIMER
BRAKES
FRONT BRAKES
Friction Pad
Caliper Unit
Hub and Disc Assembly
Disc Brake Conversions
REAR BRAKES
Brake Shoes
Wheel Cylinders
Brake Hoses
Brake lines
Brake Drums
POWER BRAKE AND MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
Power Unit
Master Cylinder
BLEEDING AND FLUSHING THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
BRAKE PEDAL
Stop Light Switch
PARKING BRAKE
Front Control Cable
Rear Brake Cable
CLUTCH
HOUSING ALIGNMENT
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
CLUTCH LINKAGE
COOLING SYSTEM
MAINTENANCE
FAN BELT
THERMOSTAT
WATER PUMP
HEAT INDICATOR/TESTING
REPAIRING THE RADIATOR RESERVOIR TANK
RADIATOR
Installation
Recoring
Painting
The Radiator Support
THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE AND CLAMPS
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
STARTER MOTOR
IGNITION CIRCUIT
Basic Engine Diagnosis
Ballast Resistor
Distributor
Spark Plugs and Cables
ALTERNATOR
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
AMMETER
HORNS
LIGHTS
Headlamps
Parking Lights
Tail and Stop Lights
Signal Lights Flasher
Directional Signal Switch
Directional Signal Tell-Tale Lights
Back-Up Lights
Red Bulbs for the Instruments
Trunk Light and Trunk Light Switch
Current Bulb Numbers
FUSES
MISCELLANEOUS
Three Shorts Waiting to Happen
Critical Grounds
ENGINE
REMOVAL
DISASSEMBLY AND CLEANING THE ENGINE
REBUILDING THE ENGINE COMPONENTS
The Oilinf System
Vibration Damper (A.K.A. Harmonic Balancer)
Timing Gear Cover
Camshaft and Bearinga
Rocker Arm Assembly
Valve Lifters
Valves, Guides, and Seals
The Cylinder Block
PUTTING THE ENGINE BACK TOGETHER
ENGINE SUPPORTS
INSTALLING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
FRAMES
BODY-OFF RESTORATION?
MISCELLANEOUS
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING
FRONT SPRINGS
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS
LOWER AND UPPER CONTROL ARMS
Inner Pivot Shafts and Bushings
Outer Pivot Pins and Bushings
STEERING KNUCKLE AND KING PIN ASSEMBLY
STEERING GEAR
STEERING LINKAGE
Steering Bell Crank Assembly
Tie Rods
STEERING WHEEL
STEERING SHAFT JACKET ASSEMBLY
Lower Support Bearing
Interior Steering Column Collar
Directional Signal Switch
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
POWER STEERING
Reconditioning the System
Converting to Power Steering
GASOLINE SYSTEM
WHY DO YOU SMELL GAS FUMES?
FUEL LINES
FUEL TANK
Removal
Repair
Installation
AN EVAPORATIVE FUEL CONTROL SYSTEM FOR AN AVANTI
FUEL PUMP
CARBURETOR
New Replacement or Major Rebuild?
Cleaning
Do your Own Minor Rebbuild
Fuel Economy, Metering Rods, and Jets
Linkage
The Accelerator Pump
The Choke
The Throtttle Kicker
THE SUPERCHARGER
Normal Operation
Changing Oil
Removing/Installing Supercharger Belts
REAR SUSPENSION AND REAR AXLE
REAR SUSPENSION
Torque Arms, A.K.A. Traction Bars
Rear Springs
Rear AXLE
Hub and Drum Assemply
Rear Axle Shaft
Now for a Little Heresy?
What's That Little Hole For?
POWER-SHIFT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
REBUILD IT YOURSELF
1ST GEAR START IN DRIVE?
NEUTRAL BLOCKING PAWL
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Fluid
Band Adjustments
Replacing Leaking Rear Oil Seal
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE TRANSMISSION
Removal
Installation
TORQUE CONVERTER
Performance or Standard Model
Ring Gear
Pilot Busning
Alignment
WHEELS AND TIRES
TIRES
Radials?
Size?
Inflation?
RIMS
Disk Brake Rims
Substitutes
Check for these Potential Problems
Correct Rim Color
BODY
SPECIAL PAINTS AND FINISHES
EXTERIOR
Fiberglass Repairs
Paint
Stainless Steel Trim
Glass
Weatherstripping and Keeping the Interior Dry
Hood
Door Assembly
Windshield Wipers
Bumpers
Rear View Mirrors
Radio Antenna
INTERIOR
Removing Door and Window Handles
Sun Visors
Rear View Mirror
Interior Rear Quarter Trim Piece
Cables and Conduits
Dash
Instrument Panel
Headlining
CLIMATIZER AND VENTILATING SYSTEM
AIR CONDITIONING?
CABLES AND CONDUITS
WATER CONTROL VALVE
VENTILATING SYSTEM
Air Outles Screen
Air Control Valve
Avoiding a Flood
APPENDICES:
APPENDIX I MECHANICAL STOP LIGHT SWITCH
APPENDIX II SOLID STATE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
APPENDIX III ARROW SIZE/SHAPE FOR TELL-TALE DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL LENS
APPENDIX IV TEMPLATE FOR THROTTLE KICKER BRACKET
APPENDIX V TEMPLATE FOR TRACTION BAR BRACKET
APPENDIX VI HALOGEN BACK-UP LIGHTS
APPENDIX VII EVAPORATIVE FUEL CONTROL SYSTEM
APPENDIX VIII PARKING LIGHT RECEPTACLE MALE MOLD
APPENDIX IX LOCATIONS FOR LABELS AND DECALS
APPENDIX X 1963 R-2 ENGINE COMPARTMENT
APPENDIX XI STEREO RADIO AND R-3307
APPENDIX XII COPIES OF INSTRUCTIONS FOR ACCESSORIES
When one publishes a book, it is inevitable that some of its information will be dated before the book comes off the press. This book is no exception. New problems will surface and new solutions will be devised, old solutions will be improved upon, new information will supercede old information, and new repro parts will become available and new interchanges will be discovered even as other parts become unavailable. This UPDATES section will cover all of this and more. Each UPDATE will be introduced with the date on which I post it, followed by the topic and the page # on which that topic is discussed in WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU.
11/24/00 RIMS: SIZE AND SUBSITUTES, p.71. I have always heard that the special rims used on Avantis and other Studebakers from '63-'64 equipped with disk brakes were 5" rims. In fact, that is the measurement for these rims that I give on p. 71. But recently I discovered the proper way to take that measurement, and as it turns out the Avanti rim is more like a 4 1/2" rim (the meansurement is taken between the two bead sealing surfaces of the rim). That is wider than conventional Studebaker rims and P205 75 R15 radial tires will work on them. But the substitute rims I mention on p.71 will work even better with radials.
There is a problem, though. In the "rust belt" it is getting harder to find a complete set of 4 of any of the potential substitutes in salvage yards. And I recently discovered that 2 salvage yard rims that looked identical actually had slightly different off-sets from the center line of the rim and that one weighed 5 pounds more than the other. Also, some of these salvage yard rims are showing the affects of age. Rims that have been weakened by rust and the constant flexing from long use often cannot hold a wheel cover in place--they will either "walk" or pop off when cornering or hitting a bump. My conclusion is that the best solution is to buy new rims--something that is easily done at your local rim and wheel shop or a good tire store. I recently replaced 4 Avanti rims with 4 Ford rims. The Rim and Wheel shop here in Grand Rapids actually had them in stock, and to them it was no big deal. I believe there are two major aftermarket producers of rims, National Wheel and Rim Association and Kelsey-Hayes. According to a recent issue of Turning Wheels the NWRA # is 40273 and the K-H # is 82552 for the Ford 15 X 6 rim. My local shop had the NWRA rims and that is what I bought for $35 each. I thought that was a good deal, not all that much more than the rims I got from the junk yard but cannot use! Well, live and learn, and in this case I lived it and you can learn from it.
Here is how the Ford 15 X 6 NWRA 40273 rims compare to the Avanti rims. Offset from the center line of the rim: Avanti, 7/8"" and Ford 1/2". Bolt hole pattern is identical. Ford bolt holes are a little larger, and you may want to use the larger Ford nuts (they require a 13/16" socket rather than a 3/4" socket. Width between bead sealing surfaces: Avanti 4 1/2" (supposedly 5") and Ford 5 7/8" (officially it's a 6" rim). Weight: Avanti rims weigh about 16 lbs., the Ford rims about 21 lbs. The advantage of the greater weight is that the rim will flex less. But there is a slight disadvantage that may or may not be noticeable. The extra rim weight increases the "unsprung weight" at each spring by 5 lbs., and that will make bumps slightly more noticeable when you hit them, though I have to confess that I have not noticed a difference.
Your wheel covers will fit just fine on these rims, and the only way that others might be able to tell that these are not stock Avanti rims is that the 205 radials will appear to fit on them better.
I have not checked out the Kelsey-Hayes number above, but if anyone does, I would appreciate it if you would email me the actual width, offset, and weight.
2/1/01 ENGINE SUPPORTS, FIFTH POINT, p.46. I mention here that the AVANTI PARTS CATALOG shows and mentions something that is nowhere to be found in the AVANTI WORKSHOP MANUAL--there is a 3/8" spacer that goes between the left rear motor mount (which attaches to the torque converter housing) and the frame crossmember. This spacer is found and mentioned on p.7 of the PARTS CATALOG. There is one problem, though. When you go to p.7 and look at the exploded view of the parts, it appears that the spacer actually is on the right side. But do not let that fool you. Look at the note that comes after the part number. It says it goes on the left side, and I assure you that it does. If you put it on the right side you will have even worse clearance problems than you would if you left it out altogether! Got it? LEFT SIDE!
2/11/01 PARKING BRAKE, FRONT CABLE, p.19. This cable is attached to the floor pan in the area of the accelerator pedal with a "J" bolt. The "J" bolt can easily get lost in the process of a restoration, even if it did not break when you removed the rusty nut over the rusty threads. I cannot find this part listed in the parts catalog although it is mentioned in the SHOP MANUAL as the "conduit clip." The "J" part of the bolt hooks over the grooved brass fitting at the rear end of the front cable conduit, the threaded end and the "J" end go through the two 1/4" holes in the floor pan, and on the inside the two bolt ends fit through a small 1/8" thick metal place about 1 1/4" square with two 1/4" holes drilled in it on 9/16" centers. If this reinforcing plate is lost, it is easy enough to make one of those. But where do you find a "J" bolt? You won't. What you need is a "U" bolt bent to 9/16" centers. But do not look for one in the "U" bolt section of your local hardware store--there is not likely to be one there that small. Instead, go to the twisted wire cable section and find the wire cable clamps. You need one made of 1/4" stock. These clamps consist of a small "U" bolt and a yoke like device, kind of like a miniature exhaust system clamp. The 1/4" "U" bolt in this package will be bent almost exactly to the 9/16" centers you need. Trim each side to the necessary length to fit around the brass fitting on the conduit, through the floor pan and through the reinforcing plate, with enough threads on the long side for the nut. Of course, you could leave it as a "U" bolt, but that would not be like the original would it? You never know when some nosey judge might pull up the carpet to see if it is a "J" bolt or a "U" bolt!
4/05/01 STOP LIGHT SWITCH, pp. 18-19. On these pages I recommend that anyone using silicone brake fluid install a mechanical stop light switch and I give complete instructions on how to do it. This is necessary because it is well established that the conventional pressure activated switches do not normally last more than 6 months when subjected to silicone fluid.
A recent issue of TURNING WHEELS contained a report from Barlow Soper of a new switch that is specially designed to work long and well with silicone brake fluid. I am in the process of installing this switch on two different silicone filled systems, and I will give a report later on how my test of the switches goes. I can tell you this, if this switch lasts more than six months it is better than the conventional switch.
In the meantime, here are the full details on the switch if you would care to try one yourself. It is available from Ron Francis' Wire Works, ph. 1-800-292-1940. Their web address is www.wire-works.com. The number for the switch is SW-32. The instructions that come with the switch say that it has a design load rating of 4 amps, and that if you are using halogen bulbs or more that 3 standard bulbs you should also order and use brake relay switch BR-66. However, since I converted my back up lights to tail lights and stoplights, I use four bulbs back there. When I asked about that, I was unofficially told that should not be a problem. Apparently an overload causes the contact points to prematurely fail. So, since I want to test the limits of this switch, I am not installing the relay switch. The stop light switch costs $19 and the relay switch costs $30.
SW-32 looks like a conventional Studebaker stop light switch with one difference: It does not have the expected male bullet connector terminals.
Stay tuned for my take on how good this switch is over time. If you decide to try it too, let me know the results of your test.
4/14/01 LOWER AND UPPER CONTROL ARMS, OUTER PIVOT PINS AND BUSHINGS, p.50. The outer ends of the upper and lower control arms are to be spread .015" with Spreader Tool J-2044. No one seems to have a source for this tool, so on p.50 of my book I suggest it would not be too difficult to make one. But thanks to a suggestion from Jack Vines on the Avanti e-groups discussion list, it is even easier than I imagined. Taking his suggestion as a starting point, here is the tool I made using materials from my local True Value Hardware store.
Here is what you need to buy: 12" of 1/2" square key stock. You will find this in the section that also has threaded rod, angle iron, etc. 1 bolt, 3/4" x 1 1/2", with 1 nut and 2 flat washers.
Cut the 1/2" square key stock into two 6" sections. Put the 2 washers onto the bolt, with the nut, slip the two 6" pieces of square key stock between the washers on each side of the bolt and position the bolt at the approximate mid-point of the two pieces of key stock. Tighten the nut slightly more than finger tight.
The bolt serves as a fulcrum. So, you place one end of the pair of 6" pieces of key stock at the strategic point on the outer end of the control arm and apply pressure to the other end of the pair of key stock pieces. This is the only tricky part. How do you squeeze together the outer ends of the key stock with sufficient pressure to spread the other end and the outer of the control arm .015"? I used a heavy duty cast iron C clamp. It worked, though it was a little tricky as the screw end of the clamp wanted to walk off of the key stock as I screwed it tighter and tighter. Finally I wrapped a vise grip around the screw foot and the key stock and held it in place that way. There may be better kinds of clamps to apply the pressure with, but you have the idea of what needs to be done. Now, measure and proceed as described in the WORKSHOP MANUAL.
7/20/01 FUEL PUMP, p.58. On this page I mention that one can take the performance version of the fuel pump by Carter (M 6270) made for Mopar small block V-8s and easily convert it to use on the Avanti R- engines. I recently had occasion to buy a Carter pump, and I could not find one locally. If you have that same problem, go to the website for Summit Racing. They have them, they accept credit cards for online orders, and I have found their service to be very fast.
9/12/01 WHEEL ALIGHNMENT, p.53 and REAR SUSPENSION AND REAR AXLE, p.63. I am in the closing stages of finishing a custom restoration of a '53 Commander HT. Since its front and rear suspensions are basically the same as an Avanti, I want to share with owners of all Avantis built on the Studebaker frame my experience with wheel alignment. Years ago I bought a cheap and rather crude triangular device with a bubble scale on it for setting the caster and camber for front alignment. It is a very simple device and supposedly allows one to do their own front alignment. My only purpose in buying this tool was to get the alignment close enough to be able to easily and safely drive the car to an alignment shop to be done really right. But I decided this time to see just how close I could get it with this tool by being very meticulous. So I did just that, even making sure that the car was level from side to side and front to back. To achieve this I used wooden shims under the appropriate wheels, using a long bubble level to get it just right.
When I thought I had it I drove it to the shop I have frequented for over 20 years--a family owned and passed down business, someone I could trust to do this right. I discovered they had a brand new alignment rack that had just been installed and tuned in. So, just for the kicks of it, I asked them to check how close I had come with my alignment before they made any changes. A few minutes later the owner came into the waiting room with a grin and a surprise on his face reading a computer print out--with my crude equipment and set up I had managed to get caster and camber within acceptable specs on both wheels! Now with their fancy equipment they were able to fine tune it even more. But you might want to buy a similar device from someplace, like J. C. Whitney, and try aligning your front wheels yourself.
I did learn another thing that seems pretty obvious once they told me but that do not recall ever seeing addressed in any Avanti literature or Studebaker workshop manual. They determined that the rear axle housing was not mounted parallel to the theoretical axis of the front wheels. In other words, the left rear wheel was 1 1/2' closer to the front than the right real wheel. I told them to leave it alone and I would see what I could do on my own. So when I got home I checked for myself with a tape measure from the center point of each end of the rear axle to the same fixed point on the left and right frame rails. Sure enough, the left end of the rear axle was 1 1/2" closer to the front than the right end.
So, what did I do? I loosened both ends of all four U bolts and used a cable pull to pull the left side of the axle to the rear, and the right side to the front. I was able to reduce the 1 1/2" difference to 1/2". You might want to check this out on your own Avanti. Why has no one ever raised this issue before. We just assume that when one installs the axle assembly on the rear springs it will just automatically line up correctly in relation to the front. But it obviously ain't necessarily so.
10/1/01 CONVERTING TO A SOLID STATE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, pp.30 and 87. On these two pages I give complete instructions for converting your original voltage regulator with the coils, point, etc. to a modern solid state VR without changing the external appearance. The trouble with what I said there was that the small module that went inside the original can, a Transpo 590, was no longer available about 8 months after I published the book. So that was not much help. Now I have discovered a module that is small enough to fit inside the original can, has the same specs and applications, and hooks up just like the Transpo unit with the same color wires. It is even adjustable like the Transpo module. Here is the information: WAI (that is the name of the company that makes it) # 35-113.
This unit is only available from auto electric rebuilders, not at normal retailers. If you do not have a rebuilder close to you, the one I use here in Grand Rapids, MI can help you: Floyd's Electric Service, Inc., ph. (616)534-8691. When I bought one last week it came to $32.33 with tax. Floyd's Electric does stock this item, they do accept phone orders with a Visa or MC credit card, and they ship UPS. I have already hooked mine up, and it works just fine. I did not really need a new unit, but I wanted to make sure it worked fine before making this information available.
10/31/01 INTRODUCTION (Distributor Wrench), p.12. The special wrench that makes it easier to reach the 5/16" screw that holds down the distributor lockplate works not only for Studebakers but also for AMCs, Mopars, Ford products, and Internationals. In a recent visit to Sears I discovered there is a new Craftsman # for this wrench: #947682. The bends in this new wrench number are slightly different than the number I listed in the published book, but it works just as well as the earlier model. It's not really necessary to use a distributor wrench, but it sure makes it a lot easier to loosen or tighten down the distributor for removal, installation, or setting the timing.
12/15/02 APPENDICES, p.96. On this page I have a picture of a decal used to restore the painted lettering on the stainless steel serial number nameplate. Since writing my book, that decal has become NLA. However, last summer I acquired some adhesive backed foil labels that restore the lettering on this plate. I am not aware of any other source for these labels, and when the ones I have are gone, they are gone until someone else reproduces them. I am selling mine at $15 each, ppd, as long as the supply lasts. My supply is very limited, so if you need one, order at once. And please do not order extras so that these can go around to as many people as need them for cars actually being restored. See my Order Information page on this website for my address. A check for $15 will get you one. I will remove this notice from this page when they are gone.
4/8/03 1st GEAR START IN DRIVE?, p.67. On the Avanti@yahoogroups internet discussion list, Richard Morris asked me to describe in more detail how I created a 1st gear start in Drive on my Avanti Powershift automatic transmission (AT). He had read the brief description I gave in my book, What the Shop Manual Won’t Tell You: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenance. Here is how I responded.
As a starting point, I assume all of you realize that the Powershift actually starts out in 2nd gear when it is in Drive. If you want a 1st gear start you must manually shift into low. Some of us find that irritating.
But before moving on, I must give a disclaimer. John Metzker created this modification, not I. In fact, 11 years ago he walked me step by step through the conversion I will describe below. He is the Studebaker expert who answers AT questions in the Co-Operator column in TURNING WHEELS. His knowledge of even the details of ATs is amazing
First, there are two ways that one can achieve the same result. According to John, each approach has its own advantages and disadvantages, but either one works well. John says he decides which route to take based on which donor AT is more readily available in the local salvage yards at the time he needs one.
Keith Brooks has mentioned on this list several times that 1st gear start in Drive can also be achieved with an FMX transmission from the late 60s or early 70s. The FMX was the Ford version of the Borg-Warner transmission, but was built by Ford, not by Borg-Warner. When Keith has mentioned this, I have questioned whether or not that was really so. But in a recent phone conversation, John confirmed that Keith is quite right that the 1st gear start can be achieved with the FMX. In an email written to this list 2 1/4 years ago, Keith described the conversion as basically taking the FMX valve body, the FMX case and guts, but using the Powershift input and output shafts. This also requires running a vacuum line to the vacuum shift modulator. John agreed that this is basically how it is done with the FMX, though it works better if a TransGo shift kit is also used. Use of this kit has something to do with a weakness in the FMX setup. I believe the valve body. If you want more info and detail on the FMX option, I am sorry that I cannot help you. But it appears to be very similar to the next set up.
The approach I took, under John’s tutelage, was to start with a Borg-Warner AMX AT. These were used behind AMC V-8s from 1967-71 (either the M-11 or the M-12) and represent the next generation of iron case Borg-Warners after the Powershift. You install the Powershift coarse spline input shaft and front pump in the AMX unit. Install the Powershift manual lever in the AMX unit, but do not use the throttle pressure lever that originally went through the center of the manual lever. Instead, plug the hollow center of the manual lever shaft with an expansion plug and sealant.
Be careful not to carelessly mix the AMX and Studebaker parts unless these instructions specifically tell you to do so. Especially, DO NOT use the Powershift piston in the front clutch; you must use the AMX piston. I mention this because the Studebaker and AMC parts have the same casting number and superficially look identical, but they are not. The AMX version has a check ball in it.). Now if you want to use the AMX output shaft and tailpiece you are done. But it will not look even close to stock. And you will need to have a drive shaft custom made because AMX output shafts have different lengths than the Powershift.
I did not want either of these, so here is what is required to get around that problem after you toss aside the AMX output shaft, spacer at the rear of the AT, tailpiece, and associated parts. You need to install the rear pump (but without the drive key and gears), governor, speedometer gear with drive ball, and output shaft and thrust washer from a Powershift. You also need the oil collector tubes from the Powershift. But before doing any of this, drill out the holes for the oil collector tubes in the AMX case to 5/16” so they will accept the Powershift oil collector tubes.
The rear pump, which no longer has its guts, is now just a spacer and a support for the Powershift output shaft (the AMX does not use a rear pump). Somehow you need to get lubrication to the bushing in that Powershift rear-pump-turned-support. Do this by drilling and tapping a hole into the lubrication circuit of the AMX valve body to accept a 90 degree brass elbow with compression ring fitting. This fitting in turn accepts a cut-down Studebaker tube (part number 1541251) routed to take lubrication to the output shaft bushing in the now-empty Powershift rear pump housing. There is no way to better describe thisonly a picture can adequately depict it. See the accompanying photo on the Photos page.
After all of this is installed, attach the Powershift tailpiece or extension housing. This leaves one last little detail. Screwing in a new AMX vacuum shift modulator on the lower left side of the AMX case. Ooops, you can’t do that because the Powershift tailpiece is in the way! But you can solve this by some very careful and precise grinding of the tailpiece case with a Dremel tool and its cutting/grinding disks. (See photos on the Photo page with the area marked where it was necessary to grind material away). When enough is ground off the case to achieve clearance for the modulator, install the vacuum modulator. But remember that there is a rod that is inserted first that goes from the modulator to the valve body; if that is missing or bent, make your own from a 1/8” steel rod with rounded, polished ends. The finished length should be either 3.444” or 2.944”, depending on whether you are using the longer (early) or shorter (later) modulator. (See photo on the Photos page with the parts assembled).
12/6/03 DOOR HINGES, p.78. If you have door hinges that have worn through the nylon bushing and enlarged the hole in the hinge part that attaches to the door, there is another possibility that you might want to check out. Phil Harris recently began advertising that he repairs Studebaker door hinges by using Oilite bushings and new pins. I have not used this service, but I have contacted him and he says that he can do Avanti hinges. The price will vary from $20-$40 per hinge, depending on how badly the hinge is locked up with heavy rust. Phil can be contacted at stude6@yahoo.com or ph. 937-878-7712.
12/6/03 STEERING GEAR, p.51. Things keep changing in the on-going search for an appropriate substitute for Kendall C-999, the semi-fluid grease originally called for as the lubricant in the Avanti steering gear box. Reports are that all three substitute lubricants listed on p. 51 are no longer available. But two new suggestions have emerged, both of which seem to have merit.
The first is an Exxon grease called Dynagear. It comes in tubes and is a semi-fluid, extreme pressure grease used on heavy equipment.
The other suggestion is that constant velocity (CV) joint grease could be used. It would seem that any grease that can stand up to the demands of lubricating a CV joint should easily be able to lubricate a steering gear.
But remember, I have not tried either of these proposed substitutes (I still about 15lbs of Kendall C-999 on hand!). But if you need to find a substitute lubricant, no one is proposing anything that makes more sense than these two.
12/24/03 LOWER RADIATOR HOSE, p.26. Yes, it is Christmas Eve as I write this. My shopping is done, most of the presents are wrapped, so here is my Christmas gift to you. Well, not quite my gift alone; John Ricketts passed this info on to me a couple of weeks ago, and he deserves some credit for it. Here is a sub for the lower radiator hose, Studebaker part #1555929. It is Gates #20957, trim to fit.
12/28/03 THE OILING SYSTEM, p.38. Speaking of John Ricketts, what he called me about was that his oil pan seemed to be a bottomless pit. He had put in something like 6 1/2 quarts of oil, and it still registered a quart low on the dip stick. This reminded me of something I had been warned about years ago, but that I forgot to put into the book. Two things can cause the oil level on the dip stick to register lower than it really is. First, you could have the wrong dip stick--some past owner might have liked that shiny chrome handle of the Avanti dip stick and put it on another Studebaker engine and replaced it with a dip stick from another Studebaker engine, thinking they were all the same. Well, that just is not necessarily so. So in John's case, I trudged through the Michigan snow out to my frigid barn where my Avanti is stored for the winter, and by phone we compared the measurements on his dip stick against mine. He, by the way was in Florida and I suspect went out to his barn in a Tee shirt and shorts. Everything checked out exactly the same, so what about the second possibility? The Avanti dip stick tube has two sections, the top section telescoping into the bottom section. The top section has a small bracket spot welded on to it, and this bracket goes in place under one of the head bolts and that holds the top half of the tube in place. But if the spot welds have broken, or if the bracket is bent, the top half may not be fully seated into the lower half of the dip stick tube, and the level on the inserted dip stick will read too low. This was John's problem--the bracket was bent. So to correct the situation, he bent it back straight and checked to see that the level registered on the dip stick truly reflected the amount of oil actually in the oil pan. You can bend the bracket and push the top half of the tube up or down to get an exact oil level reading on the dip stick.
1/4/04 STEERING SHAFT JACKET ASSEMBLY, p.53. There is a rubber disc that serves as a coupling between the lower end of the steering shaft and the steering gear. Let's be realistic, that disc is now 40+ years old and should be replaced even it it looks OK. Your ability to steer the car depends on the integrity of that disc. Some people call this disc a "rag joint," though the technically correct name is "steering coupling disc." The disc used on GM products works for this application. The number in the HELP product line is 31000, and the NAPA part number is 630-1008. Replace the disc soon, "whether it needs it or not."
Here is what satisfied readers are saying about WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU: STUDEBAKER AVANTI RESTORATION AND MAINTENANCE.
An invaluable source of insider information. If you ain't got this book yet, you're missing out on a jewel. Keith Brooks
I received my copy and could not put it down. It's a "must have" book for any Avanti owner, Studebaker or not. Ron Maracle
A first class effort all the way. Jim Frakes
You have done a fantastic job. I really love the layout and the cover, but especially the content. I am delighted with the book and recommend it highly. Roland Gagne
A fine piece of work. Chris Altenburg
If you own an Avanti, this book is a must! Werner Frei
The tip about the Velcro alone is worth the price of the book. You must have a copy. Don Hedgepeth
Nice job. I wish other Studebaker books were as well edited. I am really pleased! Stephen A. Montgomery
Your book will be helpful on Avanti IIs as they are basically Studebakers except for the drive train. I own both a 63 R-2 and a 73 Avanti II. Don J.
Stan didn't know that I was going to do this, but I would like to recommend to everyone his new edition. It is full of interesting and useful information. One caution--do not expect this book to cover everything you need to know about your Avanti. It assumes you have a Shop Manual and that you use it for everything it covers. This book has additional things which should have been in the Shop Manual but which aren't. You need both. If you work on your own car, order a copy from Stan. Larry Swanson
Buy it now and avoid the rush. Peter C. King
If you are going to work on your car, you will find value in the book exceeding its reasonable price. Chuck Paras
Nice job Stan, Thanks! Mick Hardy
I just wanted to say thanks for putting together such a great book about Avantis. It is written so well and is loaded with so many "common sense" solutions to the quirks our cars suffer from that I have found myself just sitting around reading it for fun (and education). I think it is worth every penny. Mark Hale
The book is great--I read it cover to cover. Eric Levy-Myers
Five years in revision, What the Shop Manual Won't Tell You has grown from a 25 page stapled photocopy to a 108 page, 65,000 word, large format softcover book. It is designed as a supplement to the original Studebaker Avanti Workshop Manual.
This book does exactly what the title says--it tells you what the Workshop Manual could not have told you about restoration and maintenance over 35 years after the car's original manufacture.
I wrote the book in plain language for the restorer who is not a professional mechanic. And while I wrote it specifically for restoration of '63-'64 Studebaker Avanti's, reviewers and users of this book have consistently reported that the book also has all kinds of useful information for the later Avanti IIs that were built on the Studebaker frame. In fact, one recent reviewer commented that this book has so much information in it that applies to many Studebaker models of the 1950's and 1960's that every Studebaker owner should own a copy.
Here are other interesting features of the book. The cover design is reminiscent of the original Workshop Manual cover. The internal page design is an almost exact replica of the page design of the original manual. And finally, so far as it was reasonably possible, in the order of presentation of my information, I followed the order of the Table of Contents of the original Workshop Manual. This makes it especially easy to work back and forth, comparing the text and instructions of the original with this new supplement.
One final note: this book is not intended to replace the original Workshop Manual or Parts Catalog. Every restorer needs both of those books plus What the Shop Manual Won't Tell You: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and Maintenance.
To get a good idea of what this book contains and of the universally favorable response it has received, visit the appropriate pages on this site.
Stan Gundry